The big drink in New Orleans these days is the "hurricane," a concoction of rum, passion fruit syrup (or grenadine), and orange juice. Don't worry, I'm still sober. The marvel of the hurricane for me is that this city, so devastated 6 years ago by Hurricane Katrina, has named a drink after the thing that nearly destroyed them. That's like New Jersey having a drink called "the Hindenburg." Or Haiti serving up an "earthquake." But New Orleans in a party town that doesn't miss a chance to capitalize on its fame. And it's a town of resilient, hard-working people who know what it means to rebound from disaster.
Now, I haven't been to the Lower 9th Ward, or what's left of it. And I feel like a ghoul for even admitting my curiosity. If you want a sense of it, try Google Earth. So many of the houses have been bulldozed that the area looks in large part like a marsh, its true identity betrayed only by the streets and by the driveways leading no place. The photographer in me wants to explore it in person, the poet shuns the idea of making any personal gain from such monumental pain, loss, and grief. So, there'll I'll leave it.
The things for which NOLA is best known, other than Katrina, are all still here. The music surrounds you, rich in its emotion, depth, and texture. The squeezebox and washboard of zydeco, the mournful twang of the blues, or the celebration and brass of jazz are all around. The buskers too are some of the best you'll find anywhere.
And of course, there's the food. We haven't been here long enough to sample everything we'd like, but so far we've enjoyed an oyster po'boy, crawfish etouffe, crab boiled potatoes (boiled red potatoes rolled in spicy seasoning), redfish, blackened chicken, and the slightly less traditional crawfish ravioli. Still on the to-eat list: a muffaletta sandwich, beignets, and jambalaya.
What I've learned so far: booze is available everywhere, including drug stores (which almost makes sense), the Mardi Gras masks are 70% cheaper at Walgreens than at a souvenir shop, and if someone bets you he can tell you where you got your shoes, say, "On my feet."
To be fair, the drink preceded Katrina. And not only can you get them in go cups, you can get them from drive-thru windows. But drinking and driving is still illegal. Only in NOLA. Laissez les bon temps roulez!
Posted by: Molly | April 15, 2011 at 12:36 PM
I was there a few years ago, amazed that I was asked if I wanted a go cup for my mojito when dinner was over but the huge drink was not.
I loved loved LOVED those crab boiled potatoes - had no idea what they were but at one restaurant, they were brought to the table with butter, as bread would be prior to the meal. I've bought crab boil and made them at home, figuring that's what they did with them. Hmmmm...maybe time to berl some up soon.
Posted by: Chris | April 17, 2011 at 02:39 PM
I'm so glad that you and C had an opportunity to get away and have some fun!! Looking forward to more NOLA stories.
Posted by: sparkly jules | April 19, 2011 at 03:35 PM